By Timothy Egan

“A shiny exploration of 1 man's lifelong obsession with an concept . . . Egan’s lively biography may possibly simply deliver [Curtis] the popularity that eluded him in life.” — Washington publish

Edward Curtis used to be charismatic, good-looking, a passionate mountaineer, and a well-known portrait photographer, the Annie Leibovitz of his time. He moved in rarefied circles, a pal to presidents, vaudeville stars, prime thinkers. but if he used to be thirty-two years outdated, in 1900, he gave all of it as much as pursue his nice concept: to catch on movie the continent’s unique population earlier than the previous methods disappeared.

Curtis spent the subsequent 3 a long time documenting the tales and rituals of greater than 80 North American tribes. It took large perseverance — ten years by myself to cajole the Hopi to permit him to monitor their Snake Dance rite. And the venture replaced him profoundly, from indifferent observer to outraged suggest. Curtis could amass greater than 40,000 pictures and 10,000 audio recordings, and he's credited with making the 1st narrative documentary movie. within the procedure, the fascinating rogue with the grade college schooling created the main definitive archive of the yank Indian.

“A darn sturdy yarn. Egan is a muscular storyteller and his booklet is a rollicking page-turner with a colorfully drawn hero.” — San Francisco Chronicle

"A riveting biography of an American original." – Boston Globe

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This rescue, and Curtis’s services at the mountain, so inspired the Mazamas that they requested him to guide their excursion. Curtis agreed. He additionally welcomed all woman climbers who desired to make a opt for the pinnacle, and named one younger girl from Portland, Ella McBride, as a coleader. McBride was once a schoolteacher, with nice stamina and athleticism that Curtis prominent. in step with a Mazama request, Curtis gave in to 1 customized of the membership: the women have been required to put on bloomers. After a prayer, up into the clouds they went in unmarried dossier, observed by way of a slow-trudging, usually slipping staff of musicians wearing heavy tools. prior to nightfall, once they reached the snow camp named for the naturalist John Muir, the occasion was once ordered via Curtis to prepare dinner up soup and stew, then mattress down ahead of dusk. The brass band performed “The Star-Spangled Banner” and all went to sleep. They rose a number of hours later, simply after dead night, stomping their calked boots on compressed ice, a fats moon overhead, blankets wrapped round their higher our bodies. Frozen lips pressed opposed to frigid mouthpieces because the band attempted to provide their Mazama companions a tuneful sendoff. the 1st hour used to be all doubts and chilly palms, Curtis encouraging the climbers to stick confident: it can recuperate after dawn. that they had such a lot of questions: What may still they consume? little or no. Their stomachs will be turbulent from the altitude. How slippery may the ice be? tough, till noon. Are there many crevasses? a variety of ones, a few hidden via snow bridges, deep and unsafe. Prod first with the alpenstock earlier than taking a step. the frenzy to the summit was once a gradual march previous monoliths of rotten rock and elderly ice. dawn got here with a burst of rose-colored mild and a view of the lengthy blue wall of the Cascade variety simply to the east. because the day went on, the sunlight softened the snow, making it tough to stroll. The altitude made numerous climbers ill; they dug into the snow to attend out the climb. by means of 3:30 within the afternoon, what was once left of the most occasion crested the crater and walked prior steam vents to the summit. The volcano was once alive, they learned, through the robust scent of sulfur and the hissing from the openings on the maximum aspect of the Pacific Northwest. The Mazamas acquired their checklist, placing fifty-nine humans at the summit. At 4:30, Professor McClure manage his mercurial barometer and took numerous measurements. Later, his figures have been computed to an altitude of 14,528 ft, which might make Rainier the tallest height within the contiguous usa. The altitude used to be off, because it became out—too excessive by means of 117 ft. Curtis didn't permit the celebration to stick lengthy on best. He knew the snow that have been mush at the method up may speedy harden whilst the sunlight left it, and in addition that the way in which down was once the main risky a part of any climb. The exhausted occasion Curtis. simply after nightfall, climbers misplaced their footing and slid, falling speedy towards a ledge. They stuck themselves sooner than tumbling over a cliff. Curtis went after the anxious, scuffed males and led them again to the most team.

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